FORMAL WEAR ALTERATION


ALBERTGERALD - 1075 EASTON AVENUE - SOMERSET NJ 08873

732-289-2748 - INFO@ALBERTGERALD.COM

 
THE ART OF MANLINESS - ALTERATIONS THAT EVERY MAN NEEDS
The fit of your suit is the single most important part of looking and feeling good in it. Without fit, even the richest man wearing the finest cashmere suit comes across more as a rube than a rake. 
The sad truth is that you will always have fit issues with any "off the rack suit". However, there is still a way to making that off the rack suit fit like a custom made garment - alterations. 
Here are some alterations AlbertGerald offers to make you feel like a dime in your suit: 
  • Shoulders:
When you first try on a suit jacket, you are mainly checking for the right fit in the shoulders. Try on the jacket and check the fit of your shoulders first. The shoulder seam of the jacket should end where your shoulders naturally end; Linebacker shoulders are a throwback to the 80s and generally not in trend anymore.
However, if you have a suit jacket in your closet with a linebacker shoulder fit we can take in the shoulders for you to make the seams of the shoulders aline with your shoulders. 
  • Shortening the Sleeve:
This is an alteration that almost 90% of all the off the rack suits need. Most off the rack suits have the sleeves many inches too long. The shirt cuff should ideally show 1/4" to 1/2" when you rest your arms at your side. 
The ideal fit should look something like this:
At AlbertGerald we make it our mission to get you suited up the right way. We want our customers to look classic and rakish once they pick up their suits from our tailor shop. 
  • Pants Hemmed:
Suits you get off the rack normally come unfinished since you have a few options on how you can wear your dress pants:
Cuffed or Plain Hem
The first decision to make is whether you want your pants with cuff or without a cuff. This is a matter of personal preference.
A cuffed pant is a more traditional option. A cuff adds more weight to the bottom of the pants and allows the fabric to drape naturally. If the cuff is done right, it looks classic and clean. Our Master Tailor Hilda has years of experience and knows exactly what it takes to create the perfect cuffed hem. 
 
If your dress pants are pleated, cuffs are a great option to consider. However, we want to remind you that it is very important to wear the pants at the right height around your waist. Pleated pants are meant to be worn around your natural waist to avoid looking like you have gained a couple of pounds around your waist and thighs. 
The plain hem is a more modern option and are generally better suited for slim and flat front pants. Tapered legs hug your body better and don't require the extra weight at the bottom to make them drape properly. (Cuffs still look excellent on slim fitted pants. Like mentioned above it is truly a matter of preference.)
The next decision you need to make regarding the hem of the dress pants is the break. The break is the degree to which a pant extends down your leg, ranging from a full break to medium break to no-break.
  • Full Break
A full break extends to about the top of the heel on your shoe and generally covers about 2/3 to 3/4 of the laces on your shoe. With a full break the pants should neatly fold once where they meet the top of the shoe leaving your socks fully covered, even while walking. We recommend a full break for wider-legged pants. This is a more traditional look and very popular among older men. 
  • Medium  Break
The Medium Break is a very common way of hemming dress pants since it is a compromise between full break and no break. Instead of the pant hem ending at the top of the heel it ends about 1/2 to 2/3 of the way down the shoe. This creates a slight fold where the cuff hits the shoe, leaving  your socks to show while you walk. This break is recommended for dress pants of all finishes - flat front or pleated, plain or cuffed.
  • No Break
With this break the dress pants neatly end at the top of the shoe. This look is best suited for a slim, flat front trouser. 
When you walk or sit, your sock are definitely out there for everyone to see; AlbertGerald carries a wide selection of funky socks for you to shop when you walk in to drop off or pick up your dress pants. 
The no-break style looks great with a cuffed hem to weigh down the bottom of the pants but can also be pulled off neatly with a plain hem. 
 
  • Take Sides in of Jacket:
Many "Off the rack" suits are rather boxy; we can rectify this by taking the sides of your jacket in. By bringing in the sides of the jacket we automatically create a V-Shaped figure. 
It is very important for the jacket to be fitted, not tight. Our master tailor makes sure that the jacket creates a V-Shape and not an X-Shape. If you own a jacket that pulls too much on the sides we can let out the side so that it fits like it should.
SOME OF OUR CUSTOMERS:
 

 SIDES IN/ SIDES OUT

CENTER IN/ CENTER OUT

TAPER SLEEVES

LENGTHEN SLEEVES/ SHORTEN SLEEVES

REDUCE LENGTH OF JACKET

LOWER COLLAR

TAKE IN SHOULDERS

ADD/ REMOVE SHOULDER PADS

SHORTEN SLEEVES

CHEST IN

PLAIN/CUFFED HEM 

TAPER LEGS

CROTCH IN/OUT

WAIST IN/OUT

SEAT IN/OUT

REMOVE PLEATS

CROTCH IN/OUT

ADD/ REMOVE BELT LOOPS