If you are not a tailor, bespoke or suiting expert, detecting a bad fit can be a little tricky.
It takes a lot of experience to understand what’s working about a suit and what’s not. If you have a fit issue, which is the case for most men, the goal is fixing it without making your outfit uncomfortable. But even if you do not dress up a lot, there are a few things you can figure out yourself – if you know where to look.
We have all the answers you are looking for to recognize the perfect fit when you see it. Read the Q&A below and become an expert yourself;
HOW MUCH SHIRT CUFF SHOULD SHOW?
The key, as it is for most things in life, is balance. Too much cuff looks sloppy, but too little cuff on the other hand makes your jacket sleeves look long.
The idea is to show about 1/4″ to 1/2″ of your shirt cuff below the sleeve of your jacket, leaving the perfect blank canvas for silk knots or a set of cufflinks to shine. Whether your shirt has a barrel cuff of a formal french cuff, you never want to creep into full-cuff territory And please, when you check the fit keep your arms down at the sides of your body and do not lift them up.
HOW IS MY SHIRT SUPPOSED TO FIT?
Most men have fallen victim to a baggy, ill-fitting dress shirt that ruins an otherwise outstanding look. Covering such a shirt with a suit jacket only delays the inevitable, that’s why you need to make sure your shirt fits right.
Always start with the collar of the shirt. When it is buttoned up, two fingers should fit comfortably between the collar and your neck. Anything tighter or loser than that will just look off and be very uncomfortable to wear.
The body of the dress shirt is proportionately sized to its neck size, so if you need more room in the body, opt for a classic fit. If you prefer a tailored shirt body, try a slim fit shirt. Either way, avoid too much fabric as it might bunch up awkwardly underneath your suit jacket.
Lastly, check the sleeve length. Your shirt sleeve should end right where your hand meets your arm.
HOW ARE MY PANTS SUPPOSED TO FIT?
We trust that you know how your pant waist should fit – if it is too loose or too tight let our tailor help you with your fit issues by either expanding the size of your waist or by reducing it.
The other aspects of your trousers aren’t so cut and dried, the length of the pant in particular. If your pants are too short, you will see too much sock. If they are too long, the leg fabric will pile up on top of your shoes – not a great look either way. If you are aiming for a modern look, the pants should only touch the top of your shoes.
Finally, walk around in your new pants, try out some of your favorite dance moves and make sure that the seat and the thighs of the pants are not too tight or too loose.
HOW IS MY JACKET SUPPOSED TO FIT?
When it comes to the right fit of your jacket, personal preference plays a big part of it.
However, these are a few pointers to keep in mind when purchasing a new blazer or suit jacket; If the lapel billows out awkwardly or won’t lie flat against your chest with the top jacket button closed, your jacket is too tight and you will need to get the next size up. If the shoulders of the jacket hang out past your actual shoulders, or you can’t make out the shape of your chest or waist, your jacket is too big.
If the sleeves hang down near you knuckles, or the body of the jacket hangs down past your bottom, it’s too long. You will either need a shorter jacket length, or if you fall in between length sizes, you’ll need to get it adjusted by a master tailor. The jacket body should end mid-rear, and sleeves should end at your upper wrist bone. ProTip: try the jacket on with your favorite dress shirt to get the right sleeve length of your suit. (Remember, the cuff of your shirt should show anywhere between 1’4″ to 1/2″).